E3 / West Brighton Radial
( Exclusively Brighton Models)
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Mobile 07875 488209
Fax: 01684 298012
Email: mike@mjwsjw.co.uk
WebMaster: Mike Waldron
As Silver steel is 13” long, the rear upstand wall is cut to 12” long. The side walls are 7”, the anvil and clamping jaws are 5” long.
The base is shiny formica (not Melamine) covered chipboard - an old cupboard door! The slots in the side walls allow front and back
adjustment for the aligning rod, which is to be held in place by round head wood screws.

Method of use.
The two chassis sides are clamped in the slots between the anvil and jaws, and pushed tightly up against the front wall - which is exactly
at 90deg to the anvil. The alignment rod is passed through the side bearers, and  clamped so that they are exactly parallel to both the base
and the back wall. This will ensure that the two holes are aligned. It can be done with top hats (fixed axle - driving) already fitted.
Coupling rods are used on long jig rods to align each bearing.
E.B.M Chassis Jig 1
Measurements of parts of jig:

1. Rear up-stand wall
   20 x 20 B&Q Aluminium angle

2. Side walls
   20 x 15 B&Q Aluminium angle

3. Alignment rod bearers
   Brass M6 threaded rod/bolt
   With 2 nuts and washers - drilled
   1/8” or 2mm (Axles sizes)

4. Anvil
   13 x 10 B&Q Aluminium angle
   
5. Clamping jaws
   13 x 10 B&Q Aluminium angle

6. Clamping screws
   M4 stud with 2 nuts each end

7. Adjustment slots
   Milled (can be drilled at each end
   And filed into a slot)

8. 1/8” or 2mm silver steel rod
   For aligning chassis sides
Thin ‘shim’ to allow a
wider chassis spacer
to be used.
If anyone knows a source of similar, but wider channel for varieties of chassis spacer width - please email me on mike@mjwsjw.co.uk
Email: mike@mjwsjw.co.uk
Second design of non-DIY chassis jig illustrated elsewhere on the website